Personal style and how a man carries himself can make a strong first impression and lend to a man’s overall ethos. Take one look at him and you can assess him by some key aspects: His clothes, his haircut, the way he walks and then there’s his wristwatch. A wristwatch is a powerful tool that not only provides the wearer with the ability to tell time (hopefully with great accuracy), but it also communicates a personal sense of style perhaps more than any other accoutrement this side of a pair of well-made shoes or expensive glasses or sunglasses.
Sure, those items might be more easily noticed, but it’s the timepiece that’s the definitive man’s style statement that has stood the test of time for over a century with greater impact, more pervasive influence and one that’s rife with the kind of design and technology that easily overshadows other men’s style elements. No matter what watch you wear, you’re making a statement about who you are and what’s important to you.
Rolex
The more pragmatic, lower cost brands like Timex and Casio fall too far on the side of utilitarianism and speak more to your frugality than your sense of style, while the high end brands like Richard Mille and Bvlgari step over the line of classic iconic style and into the realm of gauche — created more for pure show than for anything within the realm of serious timekeeping.
And then there are the true elite horologicals that exude timeless style, the ones that never seem to age and ones that are recognized globally as the best in design, quality, timekeeping ability, value over time and that all-important message of masculine style. We’ve chosen five premier brands that are respected all over the world, not just by the horological cognoscenti, but by anyone who understands the impact of a man’s wristwatch on his whole ethos.
Rolex is the world’s most recognized watch brand. And that comes as no surprise given that the Swiss watchmaker has been around since 1905 and stands as the single largest watchmaker with production numbers of 2,000 timepieces per day, an astronomical number for a high-end watch brand. But as big as the Rolex brand is, they’ve built and maintained a reputation of secrecy and mystique that few brands can match. They’ve also attained status in the forefront of most men’s minds as a strong symbol of success.
It also happens to be the most copied brand in the world, and not just in the form of cheap, Chinese knockoffs that turn green in the shower. The Rolex Submariner design is emulated by dozens of brands, and these homage watches are well-made but not nearly to the specifications or rigors of Rolex timepieces — and this is why Rolex can command higher prices, and discerning people are willing to pay for them, whether it’s a brand new $5,000 version or a $150,000 vintage timepiece. To run down the litany of Rolex’s accomplishments reveals its ethos of sophisticated sports luxury. Rolex can boast fine achievements like the first waterproof wristwatch in 1926, the first waterproof case to 100 meters in 1953 and the first chronometer certification all the way back in 1914.
But a man wearing a Rolex does not automatically convey success, sophistication, masculinity and style. Just like a man who buys a Ferrari, chooses to peel the tires at every intersection and helm it while wearing licensed Ferrari apparel from head-to-toe, wearing a Rolex watch to draw attention automatically disqualifies its wearer as someone to respect. If you wear a gold and blue Rolex Presidential and enjoy four-button suits, lizard shoes and talk about yourself in the third person regularly, then you’re likely abusing all that Rolex stands for in the name of getting attention. If you, however, see a Rolex timepiece as a subtle but timeless style statement, like pairing a Savile Row bespoke two-button charcoal gray suit with a vintage Submariner, then you clearly understand the Rolex brand and understand what it conveys in the way of class and under-the-radar masculinity. Rolex’s most popular and iconic example is the Submariner, which can be categorized as the gentleman’s sport watch. He sails because he’s passionate about the sport and ends the evening with a glass of Highland Park single malt.
IWC
Timepieces from the International Watch Company might command around the same price point as Rolex, but their renown in consumer circles is wholly different. Consider IWC the thinking man’s watch brand largely because the choice to buy one is deliberate, as opposed to picking a Rolex, which can be mistakenly done because it’s oftentimes the logical and popular choice for those who have the necessary capital without horological knowledge.
Select a timepiece from IWC and you’re in elite but cult status. Their designs are classic, elegant and timeless (except for the Top Gun or Aquatimer). The Portugieser is one of their most prominent and coveted watches, and for good reason. One look at it and you realize you’ve graduated into another realm of wristwatches, one that’s subtly powerful and understatedly confident. A man who wears an IWC is not only confident in who he is, but he also has nothing to prove in the way of style. He might be a family man but one who has not lost himself in the shadow of responsibility. He’s passionate about comfort and security, typically conservative, he knows what he likes and is comfortable in his own skin. He cares little that his neighbors know nothing about the IWC name and doesn’t care to brag about his accomplishments. You might see him driving a vintage BMW 8-Series or a Saab 9-3 Viggen because he appreciates obscure finery, and his suit of choice is a crisp navy blue Brooks Brothers two-button.Omega (Speedmaster)
Omega SA’s sporting reputation in the watchmaking world is solidified by their commitment to creating timepieces that are a draw for adventurers, athletes, sportsmen and yes, astronauts. Though their watches are elegant, they certainly lean more towards an active aesthetic but still firmly grounded in a premier lifestyle. Omega is one of the few watch brands that has mastered toeing the line between active and luxurious with skilled perfection.
Omega is so committed to the world of sports, they’re not only the official timekeeper of the Olympic Games, they have created a massive database of every athlete in the world for every major sport all over the globe. Outside of the Summer and Winter Games, Omega also handles the timekeeping for every major international sporting event. This level of commitment goes far beyond the desire to make money from their watches… it is a way of life that the Omega brand stands behind.
The fact that the now coveted Omega Speedmaster Professional was chosen for NASA astronauts is also proof in the pudding that Omega’s timepieces are created for extremes and extreme men. The same can be said for their expansive Seamaster line. A man who chooses the Omega isn't typically the wealthy businessman — they normally gravitate towards a Rolex — but you’ll find avid downhill skiers opting for an Omega because it communicates style with power that’s more subtle. He drives a Land Rover Defender or a vintage Porsche 911, and he’s less likely to spend a weekend in the Hamptons, instead opting for a visit the Circuit de la Sarthe for the 24 Hours of Le Mans.
Cartier Santos de Cartier
The Parisian jeweler Cartier is all about regal sophistication. After all, they’ve provided jewelery to kings and queens and have grown to become one of the most successful watchmakers in the world. Cartier watches are decadent without being gaudy and manage to be luxurious even though one of their most famous timepieces, the Santos de Cartier, is a tank-style watch, which eventually became one of the few enduring watch icons in the world. It was created way back in 1904 for Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos Dumont so he could tell time while piloting airplanes. Most men back then carried pocket watches, but Santos wanted it on his wrist.
Though the Santos wasn’t the first wristwatch, it’s responsible for birthing the wristwatch industry thanks to Dumont’s fame and his flying prowess. The Santos de Cartier’s legacy continues today over a century later as a sleek, stunning timepiece, but Cartier now is far more of a luxury, status brand than a timepiece worn by pilots or pioneers.
The Cartier name is now clearly one synonymous with luxury. A man wearing a Cartier cares about art and sophistication because Cartier exudes both in luxurious style. Their designs may be simple, but they’re elegant because of fine touches like smooth cases, detailed crowns and exposed screw bezels. He’s more apt to drive a car like a new Mercedes S-Class or a Bentley and wear custom made suits. He frequents the art galleries and considers a good Cabernet Sauvignon one of his best friends.
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